Monday, August 23, 2010

Naples New And Not So New

I cannot tell you how happy I was to find a nice wide sidewalk in Europe. Cheerfully I strode out of the port of Naples, Italy, in a spot where much construction was underway on the Via Nuova Marina. If not a new marina, as the name suggests, Italy’s largest and busiest port was undergoing a face lift. I marveled at the handy work as I cruised along the busy multi-lane road. Work was far from complete. I noted the opposite side of the road being torn up as I ran. On my side and in the median new additions included lovely decorative lampposts and lots of trees along the sidewalk.

It was great while it lasted. To my profound dismay, the sidewalk had not been fully completed, and much work remained. I ran up to a construction gate that barricaded the sidewalk. I quickly found myself on the road, a place where drivers acted like pedestrians were a nuisance. I clung to the side of the road until I encountered street venders who were literally set up in the street, which nudged me further out into traffic. I ran pigeon-toed, hugging the edge of the road with angry car and bus drivers honking their horns at me. For those of you wondering, no, turning back was not an option.

Trying to keep my mind away from imminent death, I enjoyed the sights of this populace city that has managed to use every inch of available space. Attached homes and businesses reached high toward the heavens. A gas station operated right on the main thoroughfare, providing only enough room for cars to pull off the road and pump petrol. Civic pride boomed as residents and merchants proudly displayed Italian flags in support of their team at the World Cup. Medieval watch towers stood as a memory and a link to the majesty of the past. Unfortunately, all the interesting and unique parts of Naples I encountered on this run were cluttered by trash. I mean piles of actual litter. I had never seen anything like it, especially in an international tourist destination. I’m talking hard core garbage, like used feminine napkins out on the streets. I hadn’t seen the worst of it yet.

At long last I saw a fence that opened to a trail of stamped down grass. Needing no further prompting I exited the roadway and followed the path. It led to a tent town of sorts. Homeless people had built shelters from every conceivable piece of junk and trash you can bring to mind. By this point, I’d had my share of fun for the day and decided to go back to the dock to finish up the run.

Since the opposite side of the street was in worse shape I had no choice but to return by the same harrowing route to the ship. I arrived no worse for the wear and spun around the dock for a turn or two. A port guard wouldn’t allow me to jog down to the edge of the dock. I promptly went around a different route and found a lovely view of water fowl jockeying for food between the ships. This made for the most aesthetically pleasing view I had in Naples.

Run and enjoy the good, bad and everything else.

Tom

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